by Lex Thomas
David Chandler, whose family has owned Meadowbrook Orchards on Chace Hill Road since it was founded in 1912, is enduring another tough season on account of weather conditions for the second consecutive year. Like all local farmers, Chandler endured near total destruction of his wholesale apple crop after a fast-moving yet devastating hail storm tore through the area last summer. This year, it’s the drought.
“This year has been extremely difficult,” he says. “Fortunately, we have no stone fruit, like peaches, but the apples this year are much smaller than normal. They just haven’t had the water to grow. That will make it difficult for us.”
While a half peck bag usually contains about 12 apples, this year it will contain 14 or 15. While that might sound like a good deal for consumers, it pretty much destroys the wholesale market, where the value of an apple is based on its size per bushel.
“For the second year in a row, our wholesale output will be severely hurt,” says Chandler. “Last year, we weren’t able to sell any for wholesale. All our apples got sold for cider.”
The farm doesn’t use town water, but depends on two irrigation ponds used for vegetables and berries. Those ponds are currently 2 feet below normal.
But farmers are nothing if not persistent and persevering. Along with consistently expanding their stock of specialty and gourmet products, their own homemade frozen soups, breads, main courses, side dishes, and desserts, and offering seasonal produce and fresh cut flowers, Meadowbrook continues for the sixth year to offer a Thursday night barbecue dinner that’s not only a good value, but is one of the most delicious meals you’ll find anywhere in the region.
“When I take something on, I want us to do the best, and as good as possible,” says Chandler. “When we came up with the barbecue idea, the original concept was just to do grilled meat, but that that wasn’t really what I wanted to do, so I built a smoker. I read about it, looked up how to build a smoker, got in touch with a gentleman that does welding for us, we collaborated and built a smoker. If you look at it, it’s basic, nothing fancy to it, but it works and it works well.”
Their customers, who number from 150 to 250 per week, agree.
“The first barbecue we did here, people said it was better than anyplace else they’d been,” he says, still clearly delighted by the memory. “But when I hear compliments from people from the South, that’s fun.”
For the Thursday night barbecues, which last from 5 to 8 p.m., Chandler and his team cook 30 to 35 racks of ribs, 50 pounds of brisket, 60 pounds of pulled pork, 40 pound each chicken breast and leg quarters, 10 pounds of hamburger, plus hot dogs and veggie burgers. They use their own barbecue sauce, which is bottled and available for purchase in the stores.
They also smoke their meats using their own applewood gathered when they prune their trees in the winter.
“Prepping each barbecue is a 2-day process,” says Chandler. All meat comes in on Wednesday and gets rubbed with spices. We light the smokers 4:30 a.m. on Thursday, meats are on by 5 a.m.”
In addition, four different sides are available each time, some vegetarian. “Whenever possible, we try to use what we grow. Our caprese salad uses our tomatoes. We grow our own cabbage and broccoli to make cole slaw and broccoli slaw, whenever possible. We buy local corn, and our mac and cheese and cornbread are the best.”
The Thursday night barbecue, which runs until September 29, offers kid-friendly portions. Meals range from $6 to $30. Live music. BYOB.
Located at 209 Chace Hill Road, Sterling. For information about event packages, visit meadowbrookorchards.com or call 978-365-7617.
Photo by Lex Thomas: Smokin’ hot! Dave Chandler keeps a close eye on the smoker for Meadowbrook Orchards Thursday night barbecue.